The Mul family, now in its sixth generation, has cultivated flowers on their 30-hectare estate in Pégomas, near Grasse, France, since the mid-1800s. Joseph Mul, 86, is the fourth-generation patriarch, with his granddaughter Marika representing the sixth. The farm, once diverse in produce, now focuses exclusively on flowers for perfumery, particularly the Rosa centifolia and jasmine used in Chanel No. 5.
In the late 1980s, facing a decline in traditional flower cultivation in the region due to cheaper alternatives and urban development, the Mul family formed a unique, exclusive partnership with Chanel. This agreement ensures that Chanel has a consistent supply of high-quality Grasse jasmine and rose, crucial for maintaining the original formula of Chanel No. 5 L'Extrait. The partnership evolved from a three-way agreement to Chanel directly relying on the Mul family, who later built their own processing factory.
The harvesting of these flowers remains a labor-intensive, hand-picked process. Rosa centifolia is harvested during a brief four-week window in May, while jasmine is picked daily from August to October. Approximately 70 seasonal pickers work hours each day, with experienced workers collecting up to 3.5kg of jasmine. The flowers are quickly processed on-site to preserve their delicate essences. According to Chanel's current nose, Olivier Polge, this investment by Chanel was critical, as "without this farm, No 5 couldn't exist either."
Chanel No. 5, created in 1921 by Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel, requires a combination of flowers, including rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. The unique terroir of Grasse is considered essential for the specific qualities of these flowers, much like grapes in wine production. For instance, 1,000 jasmine flowers are needed for a single 30ml bottle of No. 5 L'Extrait. This long-standing relationship provides both stability for the Mul family and a critical, traceable supply chain for Chanel, leveraging heritage and quality in the luxury market.
