Misconceptions surrounding precious coral in fine jewelry persist, with many consumers and even industry members mistakenly believing it originates from endangered shallow-water reefs. Industry leaders, including Shirley Mitchell of the UK's Jewellery Valuers Association, Assael, and Vincenzo Liverino of the CIBJO Coral Commission, are actively educating the public and retailers. They highlight that the "precious" corals defined by CIBJO, such as Corallium rubrum (Sardinian or Mediterranean coral) and varieties like Angel Skin and Oxblood from Japan and Taiwan, thrive in distinct, deeper, and colder ecosystems, often at depths of 150 to 350 meters, unlike reef-building corals.
These precious corals are legally and sustainably harvested under stringent regulations, with documentation required for all traded corals outside the Mediterranean to state their origin. The CIBJO Coral Commission, established in 2014, has implemented strong safeguards and regulations for the precious coral supply chain, from fishing to trading. This contrasts with two decades ago when fishing was less restricted. Consequently, precious coral is not listed as an endangered species by CITES, though "common coral" used in cheaper accessories is monitored.
Companies like Assael, now a top US dealer specializing in coral since 2015, emphasize traceability and legal harvesting. Peggy Grosz, Assael's Senior Vice-President, notes a shift in perception among retailers who initially resisted stocking coral due to environmental concerns but now understand the distinction between precious and reef coral. This educational effort is driving a renaissance for precious coral in jewelry, with designers like Giorgio Bulgari using sustainable deep red Mediterranean coral in their collections, and experts like Enzo Liverino championing its resurgence, emphasizing its regulation and beauty. The UK market still sees a majority of Sardinian coral, with demand expected to rise as understanding improves.
