Zenith has unveiled its "Double Signed Program," a new initiative aimed at collaborating with independent watchmakers to reinterpret its historic Grand Feu enamel (GFJ) Calibre 135 models. The first collaboration is with Japanese independent watchmaker Naoya Hida & Co., resulting in a platinum timepiece with a solid silver dial, hand-engraved markings filled with Japanese Urushi lacquer, and hands machined from solid gold. This limited edition is restricted to just 10 pieces and is priced at $75,000.
This price point represents a significant increase compared to last year's 160-piece platinum edition of the Calibre 135, which was priced at $49,900. Despite the "eye-watering high" price, all 10 pieces of the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. have already been pre-sold, indicating strong collector demand. The collaboration also includes three unique straps made from Wagyu, Himeji Kurozan, and indigo-dyed Kahihara mill leather, further emphasizing the Japanese influence.
The collaboration is viewed as a strategic move for both brands. Naoya Hida & Co. gains further spotlight through a larger mainstream brand, while Zenith is able to engage with the discerning community of independent watch collectors. This initiative allows Zenith to tap into the appeal of historically double-signed watches, traditionally marking partnerships between manufacturers and prestigious retailers, but reimagines it as a platform for creative control and collaboration with independent watchmakers. The program sets a high bar for future collaborations and demonstrates Zenith's commitment to exploring a "middle path" in the luxury watch market, ceding meaningful creative control to external partners.
The watch itself features a 39.15mm platinum case, houses the modern revival of the Calibre 135 movement (COSC-certified, regulated to +/- 2 seconds a day, with a 72-hour power reserve), and showcases decoration with Geneva striping and hand-finished anglage. The design reflects Naoya Hida's signature aesthetics, particularly in the hand-engraved 3, 9, and 12 markings and the softened hands inspired by the Japanese brand's Type 2 design.
