Deepening conflict and economic woes in Iran are driving many Iranians across the border into Turkey, where they seek temporary respite and a sense of normalcy away from the war. A significant number are heading to cities like Van, known for its cafes, legal alcohol, and as a holiday destination, with some leaving permanently due to war, political oppression, or the desire for better opportunities.
At an underground disco in eastern Turkey, a diverse group of Iranians, including a Sufi dervish, young protesters, and former prisoners, gather to dance to Persian, Arabic, and Turkish music. This celebratory atmosphere, however, conceals deep-seated pain and conflicting emotions about their homeland. Many express a profound love for Iran while simultaneously condemning its government for destroying their youth and future, with some having fled imprisonment or its threat.
The ongoing conflict, which has reportedly claimed the lives of at least 3,291 Iranians, including 1,455 civilians, has led to relentless bombings by U.S. and Israeli forces targeting both military sites and civilian infrastructure. While some Iranians describe a relative normalcy within Iran, they note rising prices and fuel shortages. Tehran, particularly, has seen many residents flee to avoid potential violence and tumult.
Several individuals shared their experiences of fleeing intense bombing and shelling in Tehran, with one young man having left only the week before with his sick mother. Others recounted being imprisoned for their activism, including a dervish who was incarcerated for 35 days after January protests. For these individuals, Turkey represents a temporary escape where they can process their experiences, celebrate traditional events like Nowruz, and ponder their future outside of Iran, even as homesickness persists.
The border crossing at Kapikoy has become a crucial gateway, seeing approximately 2,000 people cross daily, though a UN official noted that overall numbers are actually down in 2026 and there isn't a refugee crisis. Despite the ability to find some relief in Turkey, many Iranians expressed a desire to return home, facing the difficult decision of seeking a better life abroad or holding onto hope for a democratic Iran while fearing retribution from the current regime.
